Multi-color 3D printing from an image
Turning a flat logo into a multi-color print is really a question of how color is arranged in the model. This converter builds three different color layouts, and picking the right one decides how many filament changes you make, whether the top is flat, and how much you have to trust an experimental feature. Here is what each mode does and when to reach for it.
The three modes in one sentence each
- Separate parts (relief) — every color is its own solid, stacked from the plate to its own height. Most flexible for per-part filament assignment.
- Painted on top (overlay) — one base plate in the largest color, every other color a thin skin on top. Flat top and the fewest filament changes.
- Color change per layer (layers) — a single stepped solid whose color bands are snapped to your layer height, with the slicer swapping filament at each band. Experimental.
When to use each mode
Use Separate parts when you assign filaments per part
If your slicer lets you pick a filament for each part — the normal AMS workflow — this mode gives you the most control. Each color is an independent solid, so you can recolour, reorder, or delete a part without touching the others. It is the mode to reach for when a logo has a small accent color you want to print in a special filament.
Use Painted on top for a flat, low-waste print
Overlay is the tidy option. One base plate carries the silhouette and the other colors sit as 0.4 mm skins on top, so the print is flat, pleasant to touch, and changes filament only in the last layers. It is ideal for badges, coasters, and any design where you want a clean top face and minimal purge.
Use Color change per layer only with care
Layers mode exists for printers or setups without per-part filament assignment: it makes one stepped solid and marks where each color starts so a single extruder can swap at that height. It is experimental and has not been verified in a real slicer. If you use it, step through the preview, confirm every color-change marker, and test a small version first. For a dependable print today, prefer the other two.
Comparison table
| Mode | Geometry | Top | Filament changes | Best for | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Separate parts | One part per color | Stepped | Per part | Full control, accents | Proven |
| Painted on top | Base plate + skins | Flat | Fewest | Badges, coasters | Proven |
| Color change per layer | One stepped solid | Stepped | At layer heights | Single-extruder setups | Experimental |
Settings that apply to every mode
All three modes share the same starting controls. Width (mm) sets the printed size and the height follows the aspect ratio. Base thickness is the height of the largest color plate, 1.2 mm by default. Step per color raises each smaller color by 0.6 mm, or set it to 0 for a flat top. Overlay swaps the step for a color skin thickness. Layers mode adds a layer height selector, and color heights are rounded to it so a swap lands exactly on a layer.
Keeping color count sane
Every color is a filament change and a bit of purge waste. Two to four colors matches a standard AMS or AMS Lite and keeps prints quick. If a logo seems to need six colors, the honest fix is to merge close shades in the artwork before tracing, not to add spools. More color also means more chance for a mapping mistake in the slicer.
Frequently asked questions
Which mode gives the flattest top?
Overlay. It uses one base plate and thin color skins, so the top is flat and filament changes are few.
Which mode is most flexible for filament assignment?
Relief, where every color is its own part and you assign a filament to each part in the slicer.
Is the layers mode safe to print?
It is experimental and not verified in a real slicer. Inspect the color-change markers in the preview and test on a small print first.
How many colors should I use?
Two to four, to match a typical AMS or AMS Lite and to limit filament changes and purge waste.